Author Archives: pmichael

Day 12 – Farewell to Africa and the Return Home

I had a late flight out of Cape Town, so I was able to sleep in, have a late breakfast, and do my final packing.

This trip seemed to be destined for drama with connecting flights. My outgoing flight to Johannesburg was late, and I almost missed my connecting flight to New York. Seeing my distress, an agent from another airline was kind enough to take my luggage and escort me through “off-limits” passageways at a very fast pace to my gate (I would not have made it without him!). I had another long uncomfortable flight across the Atlantic, but once back stateside I arrived home without incident and on time (around 3 PM), giving me enough time to get re-settled at home.

With the exception of getting there and getting back, I had a fantastic safari experience on my African trip as well as a birthday that I’ll never forget.


Day 11 – Cape of Good Hope and Seal Island

The last day of our tour started cloudy and rainy but cleared around mid-morning. We headed for the Cape of Good Hope on a drive along the spectacular coastline, stopping for photos at the famous sign.

At the Cape of Good Hope
 

We went up to walk the trails around the Old Lighthouse and then stopped for lunch at the Two Oceans Restaurant.

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After lunch, we went on to Simon’s Town and took a cruise to Seal Island. Along the way, we spotted penguins, seals, cormorants, and even humpback whales!


This gray heron wouldn’t leave until the captain fed him several fish

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At the end of the day, we had our farewell reception and dinner at the hotel. Our tour director gave us small parting mementos of our trip, and there were lots of hugs and good wishes all around.

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Day 10 – Touring Cape Town

The weather in Cape Town was cool (but not cold) and mostly sunny, so our tour director said we were changing our itinerary and venturing up to Table Mountain. We took the Aerial Cableway up to the top, and as we hoped, we enjoyed great views of Cape Town and the ocean and had the opportunity for “retail therapy” at the summit gift shop before the clouds rolled in.

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After returning to Cape Town, we went on a city tour, starting with the District Six Museum with its sobering exhibits on apartheid. Our museum guide, an apartheid survivor, gave a captivating presentation (using museum photos) on what his home town, a thriving multi-racial and multi-faith community, was like before and after the government forcibly relocated families.

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After our museum visit, we went to the Company’s Garden, a large botanical garden and public park. We toured the gardens, walking past historic buildings, and saw lots of birds and an albino squirrel.


Egyptian Geese

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We also had a brief stop at the colorful, predominantly Muslim BoKaap neighborhood before returning to our hotel.

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Our afternoon was free, and I chose to visit the Two Oceans Aquarium which is next to the One&Only. As the name suggests, it features the sea life in the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. I watched a scuba diver feed sea turtles, rays and guitarfish at the I&J Ocean Exhibit. At the Penguin Exhibit, I watched one of the keepers feed the African penguins, and what was interesting is that he was keeping a record of what each penguin was eating while he was feeding them (to ensure they are getting enough food). An aquarium guide explained that each penguin has distinguishing marks (for example, spots or bands on the chest), which helps the keepers to uniquely identify each bird.


African Penguins

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After my aquarium visit, I did a bit of shopping at the Watershed arts & crafts market. It’s a great place to find clothing, artwork, sculpture and unique souvenirs crafted by South African artists and designers.

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In the evening, we headed out to the Cape Town suburbs to have a traditional braii (barbecue) at the home of a local chef and his wife. The food was excellent, and our hosts were welcoming and very gracious.


 

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Day 9 – On to Cape Town

After a good night’s rest, I headed to the main lodge for breakfast and mentioned last night’s mystery visitor. One of our game drivers said it WAS an elephant. “That’s George – and there he is!!”, pointing out into the bush, and there he was – larger than life! We were told that “George” is an occasional visitor to Camp Kalahari; he likes to take a drink from the swimming pool, and sometimes he brings his friends along! After a few minutes, “George” reluctantly left after being shooed away by one of the game drivers.


George the Elephant


A hornbill drops in for breakfast at our table


A bird sips some orange juice from an abandoned glass

This was our last official day on safari, but there was no time for a last game drive. After breakfast at Camp Kalahari, we flew out to Maun and then on to Cape Town, taking great memories and photos of our safari experience with us.

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What a change from Camp Kalahari to the One&Only Cape Town, a beautiful 5-star hotel, where I had a large comfortable room with a great view of Table Mountain! I had an excellent beef filet dinner at Reuben’s in the hotel and took advantage of the luxurious spa bathroom to wash away the safari dust and grime.


 

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Camp Kalahari

Day 8 – Meerkat Adventure and Evening on the Salt Pans

This morning’s game drive took us to the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans and a visit with the meerkats, but we saw other animals and birds along the way.


Northern Black Korhaan (“Helicopter Bird”)


Ostriches


Springbok


Bat-eared Fox


Ground Squirrel

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Everyone was hoping for a photo op with a meerkat in someone’s lap or on someone’s head, but the meerkats were having none of it (perhaps they’re getting tired of tourists). Still, it was fun to watch them digging, exploring and standing sentinel.


This is the closest a meerkat came to someone in our group

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We had breakfast in the bush and then resumed our game drive.


Wildebeests


White-backed Vultures


Acacia shrub


Springboks and Waterbucks

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We returned to camp for lunch and a siesta, then headed back out to the Pans. Most of the group chose to venture further out on ATVs, but a few of us chose another game drive. We successfully located a lioness and her cubs (about 2-1/2 years old) as well as a jackal. The lioness was actually on one side of the “road” and her cubs were on the other side. She woke up from her nap, crossed in front of our safari vehicle, and called for them – and they came.

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We headed back to the Pans for drinks and dinner under the stars.


 

Some of our group chose to sleep outdoors on the Pans, while the rest of us went back to camp for the night. There were a lot of rustling noises outside my tent that lasted for about 5 minutes before I went to bed. Could that have been an elephant?

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Day 7 – Makgadikgadi Pans and Walking Safari with the San Bushmen

This morning we made a brief visit to Xaxaba village, spotting several giraffes along the way. Our guide explained the villagers’ way of life, their “general store”, and how a headman is elected and governs the village. We had the opportunity to shop, and the villagers presented songs and dances. Unfortunately, my camera batteries were exhausted and my spares were back at camp, so I could take only a few pictures.

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We then took a short flight to our next destination, Camp Kalahari on the edge of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Our tents had fewer amenities (no A/C) but were still comfortable (running water and flush toilets). Horses from the nearby stable wander the camp freely.


This bird was looking for something stronger than juice…


My tent at Camp Kalahari


Horses grazing outside my tent


The path to my tent (#4)


Georgia O’Keeffe was here…
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After lunch and a siesta, we took a walk with the San Bushmen, who pointed out animal tracks and droppings and explained the uses for different animals and plants. They also lit a fire from scratch. We returned to camp for a sundowner and dinner at the main lodge.


 

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Day 6 – Okavango Delta by Helicopter and Canoe

Today we had a variety of wildlife and plant viewing experiences, starting with a morning game drive where we spotted a steenbok, giraffes, birds, a buffalo carcass, hippos, elephants, zebras, a strangler fig, a baobab tree, a palm tree with a crooked stem, wildebeests, vultures and a sausage-tree.


Steenbok


Giraffe


Gray Go-away-birds (so named for their call)


Buffalo carcass


Marabou Storks and Hooded Vultures


Hippos


Elephants


Zebras


Strangler Fig


Baobab Tree


Palm with crooked stem (the result of competing with the neighboring tree for sunlight)


Wildebeests


Sausage-tree (so named for the appearance of its fruit)


White-backed vultures

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Later in the morning, we took a helicopter ride lasting about 45 minutes over the Okavango Delta. I sat next to the pilot, and there were no doors (??!!). Actually, there were no worries as I was strapped in well. We had sightings of hippos, antelopes, elephants, buffalo and zebras and an aerial view of the Eagle Island Lodge.


Approaching the landing pad


“I could have flown this (yeah, right)…”


African Buffalo


Eagle Island Lodge

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After lunch, we had a few hours of relaxation before our mokoro (canoe) safari. Our tour director informed us that a male lion had been spotted in the area, and we elected to cut the mokoro safari short so we could go out and find him. Still, our excursion was long enough to see lots of elephants as well as a crocodile and an African Fish Eagle.

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We went back to our safari vehicles, and after a short drive we found a male lion along with two females, several cubs and a buffalo carcass (a fresh kill from the morning), giving us lots of photo ops. Our day ended with a barbecue and songs and dances presented by the lodge staff.


The crooked palm framed by a beautiful sunset

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Day 5 – On Safari in the Okavango Delta

Our last day at the Khwai River Lodge began with a morning game drive where we saw elephants, birds, impalas, hippos, a leopard, buffalo, warthogs and zebras before returning to the lodge for lunch.


Elephants


Hippos


Goliath Heron


Leopard


African Buffalo


Common Warthog and Southern Ground Hornbill


Zebras


A hornbill checks out our food from above


A Cape Starling crashes the buffet line

After lunch we had a short 20-minute flight to the Eagle Island Lodge in the Okavango Delta, where we were greeted in song by the lodge staff.


 

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My tent at Eagle Island Lodge had a few more amenities (daybed, soaking tub and a dipping pool) and a deck where I could see dust devils, elephants, lechwes and birds in the distance.


Dust devil


Elephant


Great White Pelicans


Lechwes

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We reconvened for afternoon tea and then split into two groups to explore the area by boat or on foot. I chose the walking safari, where we learned about animal tracks and the significance of animal droppings in the general ecosystem. We returned to the lodge to watch the sun go down and have drinks and dinner.


A Vervet monkey walks into the bar…


Zebra and termite hill


Buffalo skull


Warthog grazing outside my tent


Sunset in the Okavango Delta – a view from the “Eagle’s Nest”
 

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Day 4 – On Safari in the Moremi Game Reserve

Today was my birthday! Our morning game drive started at 7 AM and ended close to noon. We had so many animal sightings – impalas, waterbucks, zebras, hyenas, warthogs, birds, elephants, hippos, giraffes, buffalo, and best of all, a lioness and her cubs!


Zebras


Impalas


Spotted Hyenas


Common Warthog


Giraffes


Helmeted Guineafowl


Lioness and cubs


Hippo


Elephant


African Buffalo

About mid-way through our drive, we stopped for refreshments, and some inquisitive birds stopped to visit (probably hoping for handouts).


Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill


Burchell’s Starling

We returned to the lodge for lunch and had a few hours to relax and enjoy afternoon tea before the late afternoon game drive, where we spotted birds, lechwes, hippos and elephants.


Saddle-billed Stork


Hippo


Lechwes


African Fish Eagle


Elephant

The drive ended with a surprise sundowner (an African happy hour). We enjoyed drinks and appetizers while watching a beautiful African sunset out in the bush.


 

Our day ended with dinner at the lodge, and there was another surprise after dinner- a birthday party complete with a cake presented by clapping and singing lodge staff, a gift, and a card signed by all of my fellow travelers – all arranged secretly by our tour director! It was so kind and thoughtful – a great end to a great day!


Happy Birthday!
 

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Day 3 – Across the Zambezi to Botswana

Today we crossed the Zambia border into Botswana. At the ferry crossing, we were hounded by very persistent street vendors. The one who followed me was selling wooden animal carvings. He had a strange way of bargaining – he kept raising the price instead of lowering it (?!). I held firm on what I was willing to spend, and he sold me three carvings – a rhino, an elephant, and a hippo – and gave me a copper bracelet for free.


 

Once our shopping was over, we boarded the ferry, said goodbye to our bus driver, and crossed the Zambezi River into Botswana (the crossing was located at the four-corner region that includes Angola, Namibia, Botswana and Zambia).


 

Our tour director informed us that Zambia’s major industries are mining (primarily copper), agriculture and tourism, while Botswana’s major industries are tourism and diamonds (Botswana has the third fastest growing economy in the world after Korea and China). In spite of the visible poverty in some areas, it was evident from its gas stations, shopping centers, and restaurants that the people of Botswana seemed better off than the people of Zambia. Our bus passed a festive “electoral motorcade” for a popular candidate in Botswana’s presidential race.

We had a wonderful lunch cruise on the Chobe River and had great food and many animal sightings – crocodiles, birds, hippos, impalas, waterbucks and buffalo.


Chobe River Cruise Boat – buffet lunch in plain sight


African Fish Eagle


Crocodile


African Buffalo


Waterbucks


Hippo and Great Egret


Impalas

We then left for our flight to the Khwai River Lodge where we were greeted in song by the lodge staff prior to getting settled in our luxury tents.


My tent at the Khwai River Lodge

We had a late afternoon tea prior to our game drive where we encountered an elephant, a lion pride and a leopard.


Departing on our game drive


Elephant


Lionesses


Leopard after dark

Our day ended with a traditional boma (an outdoor barbecue buffet) catered by the lodge.


 

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